Split the Difference - The Guardian - July 2007

Think of sailing holidays and Split probably isn't the first place that comes to mind. Despite boasting one of Europe's most attractive coastlines, a welcoming and consistent climate and the chance to explore an alternative Mediterranean culture, the Dalmatian stretch is still all too often overlooked. However, thanks to the arrival of budget flights in the area, and the country's appetite to embrace tourism, things are beginning to change.

Luka Grubor, director of Sail Croatia, rowed in the Sydney Olympics, winning gold, so he should know a thing or two on the subject. His company, which organises tailor-made sailing trips, has been growing steadily ever since its inception four years ago. As word spreads, Split and its adjacent islands are becoming an increasingly popular alternative for experienced sailors and landlubbers alike.

Luka freely admits that Croatia is a country still finding its feet as a tourist destination, but its charms are numerous; the food is decent and there's something attractive about the unpretentiousness of the area.

According to Luka, the country's growing tourist industry has been working to change perceptions of the region and country, which many people previously knew very little about beyond the news reports of the war in the early 1990s. While Dubrovnik has reaped the benefits of media attention in recent years, and is now firmly on the tourist map, Split and its neighbouring islands are slowly catching up.

Split offers excellent conditions for new sailors. A small sea, no tide and stable weather mean things needn't get too hairy. The myriad of tiny islands dotted around the area are close enough together to island hop, and there are a few unexplored parts for you to go and play Columbus.

The little-known island Hvar is a big attraction with its grand castle and fashionable restaurants and bars. For the more experienced sailor, extreme sailing conditions can be found if you're looking for a challenge. But as much as anything, if you're coming to Croatia you're coming because you want a taste of something different and that's exactly what you get.

The local excitement of Saint Duje Day (the patron saint of Split) made my trip to the area all the more vibrant. There's a slightly surreal carnival atmosphere, with thousands of people making their way through the markets and stalls. Every year there is a special boat race between Oxford, Cambridge and Split teams - an event that causes a real buzz among the crowds that line the coastline. It's well worth catching if you're rowing-inclined.